30/10/2002: All the magic of Florianópolis Island
The Hercílio Luiz Bridge is the first thing that comes
to my mind when I think of Florianópolis – perhaps due to the time it takes
to arrive on the island, perhaps due to the grace the view provides. However the
reason may be, I always remember the old bridge, the blue sea and the distant
buildings. This is my Florianópolis, regardless of the weather conditions or
the new buildings and roads in the city. The bridge is like a best friend
offering a hug. I've always liked the sea, and I've always thought of
living near it. I'm sorry for not being able to hear the humming of the waves
and feel the breeze of the beach in Porto Alegre, and for not being able to
simply run away from the world. Although the Guaíba River provides one of the
most beautiful sunsets in the world, I've always wanted the sea. To me, "Marvellous
city, of a thousand delights" is Florianópolis. I've been thinking of
substituting the "Island of Magic" for my "Smiley City". I
haven't yet had the courage to do it, nor am I sure whether I really want it -
short visits have been enough so far. Unlike the years when I stayed in the south of the
island, at the small Morro das Pedras, this time I decided to stay at
Canasvieiras. The place has a calm sea, a good shopping mall and restaurants –
everything very close –, as well as many Argentines and Gaúchos, unlike Morro
das Pedras, which has a turbulent sea, few shops, no paved access road and –
the good side of it – few tourists. I really prefer the least popular places,
where natives and fishermen live, where beaches are still untouched. Places
where the essence has almost not been changed and not very "marketed".
At Armação, Matadeiro and Campeche beaches, I feel at home. The northern beaches have a better infrastructure.
Hotels and restaurants abound, and they are especially lively in summer. The
Argentines used to be frequent-goers, but in the last high season 2001-2002 they
"skipped". They are unlikely to return next summer. Even so, many
senior citizens that own real estate in Florianópolis have adopted the city as
their official residence. By the way, not only Argentines – there's a great
number of Paulistas and Gaúchos. What are they looking for? Besides beautiful
beaches and the kindness of the Catarinenses, the good standards of living of a
300-thousand-inhabitant capital city, which still provides some safety. However, the small capital of Santa Catarina, which
sometimes still looks like a country town, is not as calm as it used to be –
if you're surprised, you'd better get up-to-date. As more and more people arrive,
and as more and more places are established, the city gets crowded with cars and
the like. With the increased traffic, the narrow roads (traditional in
Portuguese towns) have become inaccessible and insufficient, more and more
buildings have appeared around the city centre, and the sewage system has become
a problem still to be resolved. Even so, the island has not lost its magic.
Whoever wants peace and tranquillity might like to live at any of the beaches,
but it's advisable to run away during the high season, when the population
almost trebles. Florianópolis does not gets crowded with no reason.
All beaches are lovely, and there are options for all tastes. Calm waters and
enthusiasm on the shore are found in Canasvieiras, Ingleses and Jurerê
International, with their very chic mansions. Ponta das Canas, near Canasvieiras,
is calmer and has a beautiful view. Good beaches for surfing are Joaquina (venue
of frequent competitions), Praia Mole and Praia Brava, where tennis player
Gustavo Kuerten owns a flat. So, these beaches are also very lively. The
southern beaches are more native and still preserve a little of the spirit of
the old fishermen's island that has become a capital. If you want partying,
these places are a little off the track. Lagoa da Conceição is another excellent place to walk
by. It has a beautiful view (especially if you walk from the hills), clear
waters, boats and a good number of shops. You just shouldn't miss the rendeiras
along the pond and the seafood restaurants. I suggest the simple but delicious
anchovies with caper sauce. Most shops are located in the city centre. The
Portuguese-style marketplace is similar to ours. Near downtown, the Beira Mar
mall is the right place for whoever wants to go shopping and to find brands not
yet available in Porto Alegre. Around the mall there are also some fine
restaurants. Beira Mar Avenue is a dream for whoever wants to live in Florianópolis.
It has modern buildings across from the sea - the most expensive places to live
in the city. If you are in town for the first time, it's worth to
drive your car, or to rent one. Regardless of where you are staying, visit other
beaches. Get to know the most desert ones in the south of the island, cross the
river to get to Matadeiro, where fishermen used to fish whales. Watch the coming
and going of boats and fishermen at Pântano do Sul beach and a small island
across from Campeche beach. Past the pond, stop by Joaquina and Praia Mole to watch
the waves. Further to the north, Praia do Forte shows a little of the history of
Florianópolis. And do not forget about taking a picture of the beautiful view
from the Alto da Brava. Calmly swim at Canasvieiras and walk on the sands of
Jurerê. Lastly, do not forget about saying goodbye to this magical island, by
getting a post card of its landmark – Hercílio Luz Bridge. Believe me, it is
going to remain in your mind, just to make you want to go back one day! Pictures: - Praia da Armação:
1 - Praia da
Joaquina: 1 - Praia da Ponta
das Canas: 1,
2,
3,
4 |
