25/08/2002: Hot MadridI woke up on the train as the
sun shone upon me and, looking out the window, I saw the first signs of Spain’s
landscape. It was different from what I had so far seen in Europe. It surprised
me to see the dense vegetation, made up of trees and bushes – the first signs
of arriving in warmer lands. Upon landing in Madrid,
everything seemed easier, including the language. Brazilians in Spain can easily
communicate, provided that they have a basic knowledge of Spanish. Tourist
information, Internet access, maps, everything is practical and promptly
available from the time you arrive at the train station. I soon caught a bus to
Madrid’s city centre, for I was curious about seeing the Spanish capital
“face to face”. During the 30-minute trip, the first impressions of the city
could not have been better: it was quite similar to my beloved Porto Alegre!
Lots of trees, palm trees, large avenues, many cars and noises typical of big
cities, something I had grown unaccustomed to. As I got closer to the city
centre, I saw historical buildings similar to the ones in Porto Alegre, with
designs resembling the ones of Casa de Cultura Mário Quintana and Edifício Ely
(currently occupied by Lojas Tumelero, near Conceição Viaduct), although
bigger and older – some of them very well preserved, some others not that much.
Once in the city centre, I left at Puerta Del Sol (Door of the Sun), a central
square in Madrid, regarded by many as the starting point of Spain, since the
first roads are supposed to have appeared there. Whether it is true or not, that
was Madrid’s main entrance in ancient times. Madrid’s city centre
resembles that of Porto Alegre a lot, but it has no street or mobile vendors; it
is always crowded, there are lots of shops (on sale!), restaurants, and beggars
asking for money. Leaving Puerta Del Sol behind, I passed by Plaza Mayor, which
used to be an awful place, since people were executed there. The square dates
back from 1619 and was built by Felipe II. Walking about the “Plaza” for
around ten minutes is enough to experience something very disagreeable: without
my realising, a thief stole my wallet from my open handbag; then, instead of
going about town, I had a difficult course, cancelling my credit card, reporting the robbery
aimlessly at the Police Station, and sorting out other minor problems. After all problems had been solved, late in the afternoon, I walked about
Plaza do Oriente’s beautiful gardens. Located across from Royal Palace, it is
touching due to its beauty and design. It was built back in the 18th
century, and it is currently used only for official receptions and it is open
for tourists. In Spain, as well as in France, grand public buildings used to
show off the power of the Empire. Besides Royal Palace, Nossa Senhora da
Almodena Cathedral is worth a visit. These places make up one of the most
beautiful attractions in Madrid. Orient Square is a nice place to rest and enjoy
Madrid, and it is much visited by tourists. In addition, it’s common for
musicians to play just across Royal Palace, hoping to get some change. There, I
was lucky to rest in the shade to the sound of violins. Madrid is full of plazas (squares, in English), mostly in the city
centre. Every few blocks you’ll most likely find a plaza. Not all of them
feature gardens – it’s more usual to find fountains and monuments. One of Madrid’s curious
aspects is the hastal, a sort of guesthouse in very old buildings
downtown. There are buildings with a different hastal for each floor. Some of
them are good, clean and comfortable. Others are not that much, and it’s
always a good idea to choose attentively. Anyway, they are a good option for
whoever is in search of economical trips – rooms range from € 30 to € 40. By the way, whoever wants to
save money will certainly enjoy Madrid. It is the most affordable city I’ve
visited. It’s worthwhile to go to restaurants that feature very reasonable
prices and try the rich Spanish cuisine. The paella, of course, is the
dish of choice in Spain. The dish made up of rice, saffron and varied seafood is
famous all over the world. Spain has lots in store when it comes to seafood.
Several kinds of fresh fish are sold in the supermarkets, such as squids,
octopuses, shrimps, mussels, and even alive crabs and lobsters! The price for a
kilogram of lobsters ranges from € 35 to € 85, depending on the species. However, Spanish cuisine is
not only about seafood. Tortillas, pies made of potato and other legumes, and
tapas, typical aperitifs and snacks, are easy to find. Stuffed foods are also
much enjoyed, and the parrillada, a meat dish originally from Uruguay,
has already been adopted by the Spaniards. When it comes to drinks, the sangria
is the typical Spanish one. It is made up of wine, ice cubes and fruit. There
are restaurants all over Madrid and most of them serve dishes typical of Spain
and its regions, especially from the Asturias and Valencia. This is another of
Spain’s curious aspects. It is not as multicultural as other countries in
Europe. Here, Africans and Asians are less likely found (except for Japanese
tourists). One gets the impression the country is more closed and protects its
culture more strictly. As a matter of fact, Spanish culture is much different
from that of the Northern European countries. It’s been said Spaniards are
more open and less strict, and are rather similar to Brazilians. It’s the
truth, and not just a stereotype. People talk louder, are more relaxed, even the
clothes are similar to the ones they wear in Brazil, which is understandable if
you take the climate into account. At this time of the year, temperatures get up
to 35ºC. What amazes us is that the midday sun is slighter than that of 5 p.m.,
when the thermometers indicate the highest temperatures. Also peculiar is the
Spanish siesta, a pause for lunch and rest in the middle of the afternoon.
The shops are open until 2 p.m. and do not reopen their doors until 5 p.m. The siesta
shows a little of the Spanish people life style. Their day begins later, around
10 a.m. Lunch takes place about 2 p.m., then they take a nap, and work does not
get finished until 7 or 8 pm. Spaniards like to enjoy the night life. Madrid is
a very lively city, with its restaurants, bars and taverns. Whether for tasting
a glass of wine or drinking a pint of beer, there are several options. Some
typical restaurants feature live music and Flamenco dance, amusing the tourists.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have the chance to watch this dance that they claim is
so vibrant and compelling. But the costumes and the music are everywhere in the
shops and also reflect the intense and passionate spirit of the Spaniards. As for the art, whether
classic or revolutionary, Spaniards have long had a history of contributions. It
started with the painter Velasquez and his famous painting “Las Meninas”,
and went up to the 20th century vanguard of contemporary art. Among
some famous artists, one can name Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali and Joan Miró. I
managed to check out some of the works by these masters of art at the Reina
Sofia Art Centre, one of the best places for modern art fans. The most famous
among Picasso’s paintings, Guernica, is in this museum. It portraits the drama
of the Guernica War. Some of his sculptures and other paintings can also be
found there. In fact, the artist had a unique perception and a very provocative
art, deforming images visualised in an easier and more direct way from the real
world. Picasso was one the forerunners of cubism, surrealism and expressionism.
However, the great representative of surrealism was Salvador Dali, whose
paintings are impressive because of their colours and volume, causing them to be
intensely real. They usually focus on social criticism, added of futuristical
elements. With the third master of painting, Joan Miró, there came the joy of
the childish colours and lines, which, up to now, have been influencing graphic
arts. The Museu do Prado is another
important museum in Madrid, featuring Spanish, Flamenco and Italian paintings of
the period between the 11th and the 19th century. There
you can find some of the most important paintings by Velasquez. Getting to know the Spaniards’
art is a good way of getting to know what this emotional and vibrating people
think about life. As a whole, the situation and the mood of Spaniards are much similar to those of Brazilians. The only difference is that the former ones seem to be more concerned about their traditions and values, and are proud of the differences among their regions. After three days in Madrid, I had experienced a little of the best and the worst in Spain. Then, time had come for me to embark on a new round of the trip around Europe. Still within Spain, I was going to visit a very peculiar and famous city, well known mainly due to its originality, which shows up in several areas. It is Barcelona, in Catalonia. Pictures: -
Plaza Mayor: 1 -
Cathedral of Nuestra Senõra de la Almodena: 1, 2 -
Monument at Campo del Moro: 1
-
Former city hall, Plaza de la Villa: 1
-
Parque del Buen Retiro (Good Retirement's Park):
1 - City's main entrance: 1
- Communications Palace: 1 Translated by Traduzca
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