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31 July 2002: 

London, a cultural pot  

Last Friday, 26 July, I got on the Rotterdam-London train. At last, time had come for me to visit the famous capital of the Britons. I spent the whole five-hour trip – leaving the Netherlands, going past Belgium and crossing the English Channel – wondering what was waiting for me in this European metropolis.

The journey across the Channel Tunnel takes about 40 minutes; the darkness and monotony of this part of trip only got me more anxious at getting off the train and setting foot in Britain. Gradually, the country started showing up in a mix of bucolic landscape, well-maintained roads, farms made up of green squarely traced fields, golf courses and handsome two-storey houses. I assumed that the true English spirit must be there, in the countryside, and that I certainly would not find it in London. 

No owner city

London is the biggest European city and one of the most important in the world along with New York, Tokyo, Moscow, Paris and others. Whether in the old design of its buildings, in the vanguard of its youngsters or in the procession of limos, London is a true cosmopolitan city, and also a bit controversial. It combines the stylish lord and the modern punk teenager, not to say the scandal-prone elegance of the Royal Family. That is what makes London unlikely to forget.

Every day, Immigrants, tourists and citizens of this 8-million-people city fill the streets, and some of them come from the most distant corners of the world. Londoners are a hospitable people, already used to the hundreds of tourists that storm into the city, especially in Summer time. London is not the most suitable place to go if you want to experience the typical British culture. Leaving the city behind, you can find the typical Englishmen. However, in London, there are so many foreigners that they might amount to the same number of natives. 

The nightlife

London’s nightlife is lively and intense. As traditional as the delicious English tea, London’s night pubs feature their pints, large glasses of beer. The pubs close their doors early, at 11 p.m., when it is time to go to the discos or, who knows, to the raves, huge parties that will not get finished until the break of dawn. Soho is the right place to look for pubs and clubs. Whether in a pub or at a rave, London’s nightlife is always some real adventure.

The Beatles – and the vanguard that influenced generations – come to everyone’s minds when England is mentioned. Besides these rock revolutionaries, there are also the Rolling Stones, Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin and David Bowie, all of them English. This is only the beginning of the cultural life that has been making London so lively for such a long time.

I have always pictured London as a British-style city, sophisticated and elegant. I’ve never thought that I would find such a busy and multicultural place that features all the problems common to other big cities: too many people, pollution, traffic jams. The traffic could not be other than crazy with so many buses, cars and pedestrians. Yet, people are polite and stop for the pedestrians to cross the streets. The crime rate is also curious. London is a safe city to live in. 

United Kingdom and European Union

As a whole, the relationship between England and the rest of Europe is still a little complicated. In spite of being part of the European Union, the United Kingdom has not yet joined the new European currency, the Euro. This is due to its strong currency, the pound, worth around US$ 1.57, 1.59 euros and R$ 5.18. That is why London is so pricey for Brazilians... In addiction, the city has great influence on the world financial markets. London’s Stock Exchange is strong and rivals with the ones from New York, Tokyo and Frankfurt. Besides having not joined the Euro Zone, the United Kingdom hasn’t signed the Schengen Treaty, which allows citizens of some countries, including Brazil, to enter the European Union countries with no need for a tourist visa and to stay in any country within the area for as long as three months. In England, Brazilians need a permit they can earn when they arrive at the country and, after that, they can stay in the country for six months. 

The attractions

No matter at what time you arrive in London, you’ll always find a hotel with its doors open, besides cabs, buses and a real crowd at the streets, especially during the European Summer. That is because the most important brands can be found in the British capital, the best cars fill the streets, there are concerts and events for all tastes, and a lot of museums, palaces and the pompous British Royalty. Who would not like to visit such a city?

One has hundreds of things to do in London. You can stay there for a whole year and you’ll always find a new play to enjoy, a music concert or event to attend. There are also several tourist spots. As for the most traditional ones, you can already imagine what it feels like to be in front of the Big Ben and then visit the Royal Family Palace to watch the guard mounting.

Few know that Big Ben is a bell, and not a clock. It’s the biggest bell (15.3 ton) in the Clock Tower. The Clock Tower and the Big Ben are part of the Houses of Parliament, where the British Prime Minister, Tony Blair, and his peers work. The design is beautiful, in medieval style, with gothic and renaissance traces, dating back to the 19th century. Seen during the day or at night, by the Thames River, this building portraits the British power and sophistication. Very close to the Big Ben, there is the Westminster Abbey. Dating back from the 11th century, this pretty abbey is one of the most important of the kind in London. Since 1066, the Royal Family crownings have been taking place there, and it was at the Westminster Abbey that Princess Diana was mourned.

If you walk a little farther, you will get to the official home of the Royal Family, Buckingham Palace. It is possible to get in there as a visitor. Every day, hundreds of tourists gather in front of the Palace at 11:30 a.m. to watch the guard mounting. The pompous ceremony takes about 40 minutes, featuring even a Scottish band.

Bridge Tower is another of the city’s hallmarks. Built in the 19th century, this large bridge over the Thames is a piece of amusement due to its shape and because it is supported by two towers. Its Victorian style also makes up a very pretty portal of the city. At a short walk distance there stands the Tower of London, which has existed for almost a millennium. This tower, full of history, has already been a fortress, a castle and a prison, and whoever visits the city with time to spend can enjoy a very nice walk inside the tower and see reconstitutions from the Middle Age. A little beyond, you will find St. Paul’s Cathedral, which has the second largest abbey in the world – the largest is St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. The church was first built in 1604, went through fires and reforms, and got its final shape in 1710. It was the place of important moments in British history, such as the funeral of Winston Churchill, in 1965, and the wedding of Prince Charles and Princess Diana, in 1981.

There are dozens of museums in London, and some of them are free-entry. The Imperial War Museum provides a good arsenal of weapons and collection of war history – British and international wars. It is possible to watch movies and visit reconstitutions of trenches. Other interesting museums are the National Gallery, featuring art exhibitions; British Museum, of antiquities; Museum of London, with the city’s history; and, of course, Madame Tussaud’s, featuring the world famous sculpted in wax.

Walking past Piccadilly Circus, a corner full of billboards in neon (and one of most expensive spots to advertise in Britain), you’ll reach Oxford Street, the shopping street, where the best shops are. As for the price, one cannot be enthusiastic... London is one of the five most expensive cities in the world. If you go to London and do not want to spend, give it up. London is a city to spend, in good brands, restaurants, concerts and plays. London’s atmosphere leads to consumption, with a lot of products on sale and beautiful shop windows. The million-dollar cars and the limos are everywhere.

Very close to Oxford Street you will find Hyde Park. In the Summer, just as at this time, it is common for people to go to the parks to enjoy the sun and, as in the rest of Europe, have a picnic. On Sunday, when I was walking nearby, I heard the sound of live music. It was a concert by the rock band The Cure, famous in the 80’s. This is London, always something going on. 

Pictures

- Big Ben:   1

- Westminter Abbey:   1

- Guard mounting at Buckingham Palace:   1,   2,   3,   4

- Tower Bridge:  1,   2,   3,   4,   5,   6,   7

- St. Paul's Cathedral:  1,   2

Running the opposite way 

The famous inverse traffic makes the city a little amusing, as if everything were running the opposite way. London is so unique that its most crowded streets have “Look left/right” signs painted on the ground so as for the visitor to pay attention and don’t look to the wrong side, what might cause an accident. The traditional two-storey buses illustrate in a peculiar side of the urban landscape in London; it is amusing to travel by bus on the upper floor, watching the busy streets. London’s cabs are another fanciful thing in the city, still in an old English style, very much used as media. I got really surprised when I saw a blue taxi with a sign in yellow that that read: “If travelling is your passion, Brazil is your destiny.” Rather elegant, Brazilian unique propaganda on a real London cab. 

London and Brazilians

You can easily spot Brazilians in London. At the supermarket, at the streets or at the information desk, somebody speaking Portuguese is never difficult to find. Of course, you will also find Italians, Spanish, Portuguese, Japanese... so, a lot of foreigners. In London, one sees all kind of people, clothes and styles. Thus, it is also a city that lacks identity, a place where everything is mixed, and the cultures cross over. London is confusing, but unique: informal and aristocratic at the same time, resembling the old and the modern. It used to be the metropolis of the British Empire (where the sun never set down anywhere on Earth) and that continues to be a metropolis with new strength in this new century. It makes up a mosaic of many identities and countries, and, due to that, a true cultural pot.

Upon leaving, there lingers the feeling you’ve yet got a lot to explore in this city that is centuries old, but contemporary at the same time. This is London, the great English and European metropolis: both popular and aristocratic, surprising in its enormous capacity of influence and act on political, economical and financial issues. 

(Lilian Piraine Laranja)

Translated by Traduzca